Inspired by the Latin concept of rebirth, Haus of Mclees’ SS27 collection RENATUS thematises the all-consuming journey back to the self after becoming lost. 

Founded by Swiss and Native American designer Mclees Mantegazza, Haus of Mclees owes its origins to Mantegazza’s experience learning traditional beadwork during her time on the Wind River Reservation with her grandfather. 

What initially began as a book for her master’s degree is fully realised in this collection, which explores the concepts of renewal and second chances through revealing shapes which celebrate the form. 

Whilst Mantegazza’s beading is exquisitely intricate, the collection’s purposefully paired-back palette of neutral tones embodies RENATUS’s emphasis on new beginnings. Like a butterfly emerging from a cocoon, the body is hugged by Mantegazza’s exposed silhouettes, with recycled materials themselves remade through the beading process. 

Natural and religious imagery underpin the collection, with the figure of the spiral becoming a metaphor for the continuity of rebirth. This notion of rebirth as continuous with the natural flux of existence is informed by Mantegazza’s Native American heritage, which inspires many aspects of her approach to design. 

This eye-catching SS27 LFW presentation is only the beginning for Haus of Mclees, who are scheduled to present at this year’s Paris Fashion Week before relocating to Miami in 2027. This expanded, global outreach offers the label exciting expansion opportunities whilst maintaining Mantegazza’s emphasis on hand-made, hand-beaded pieces.

Images: Chris Yates