On the 17th of September, ANCIELA presented its whimsical yet grounded SS27 showcase, combining live performance, traditional runway presentation and installation. 

Drawing on Colombian-Chilean designer Jennifer Droguett Espinosa’s heritage, ANCIELA was founded in London in 2019 with South American memories and experiences of migration at its core. This collection explored mother-daughter relationships, investigating the bond and exchange of knowledge between generations. 

Ideals of remaining in conversation with the past and integrating its learnings into the present are transfigured into the collection’s emphasis on adaptive tailoring and multi-wear garments. Removable sleeves and adjustable panels compliment layers which wrap around the body, evoking the continuous yet shifting bond between generations.

ANCIELA’s trademark sustainable approach gained new meaning with this collection’s emphasis on generational knowledge. Recycled and sustainably sourced textiles such as vintage silk, Tencel, bio-based pigments and cotton were made new in eye-catching garments which thematised the past’s influence on the present. 

Innovative natural fibres were also in abundance. Knitwear and padding fashioned from AlgaFila, a material made from seaweed extract, graced the runway. Savigne vegan leather by Planet of the Grapes also made an appearance: an animal-free alternative crafted by pressing together leftover skins from the winemaking process. 

Composed of three acts exploring connection and renewal, ANCIELA’s innovative SS27 runway presentation also featured a live performance directed by filmmaker Marie Lanna and artist Luzmira Zerpa. By combining the eye-catching, concept-driven aspects of art with fashion, ANCIELA continued its mission of crafting a sartorial platform which spotlights sustainability this London Fashion Week.

Images: Marcus Hartelt