This London Fashion Week, Fashion Scout celebrates 20 years of championing emerging designers at their eagerly anticipated Ones To Watch presentations.

OTW Edition 01 featured eight talented up-and-coming designers exploring the intersection between fashion and art. Think intricate textiles, 3D elements and classic tailoring which explores themes of identity. 

Famed for launching names such as Iris van Herpen and Eudon Choi, Fashion Scout’s exquisitely curated programmes have swiftly become a go-to for those looking to discover fashion’s future stars. 

Adolf Maldonado returned to the OTW runway after making his Fashion Scout debut this February, presenting a unique collection drawing on the stature of praying mantises and the climate crisis. Neutral colours and bold textures echoed Maldonado’s inspiration whilst fringe trousers featuring over 3,500 hand-sewn threads evoked the intensity of the labour which went into them.

Royal College of Art MA graduates Jinmin Chen and Cenyi Yang’s C.PROTOCOL brought a distinctly avant-garde flavour to the runway. Weaving together the techniques of digital modelling, 3D printing and virtual fashion, C.PROTOCOL’s edgy, sculptural pieces encouraged musings on the body’s relationship to the unknown. 

After stints at Givenchy, the University of Westminster, Istituto Marangoni Shanghai and Savile Row, esteemed designer Chatchai Chaitrakulthong presented his take on modern luxury with label CHATCHAI C. Here, classic British tailoring met contemporary textile innovation with bold textures and patterns. 

British fashion and textile designer Christine Elizabeth exhibited her unique approach to texture on the runway with pieces emphasising their woven cloth material. Textured surfaces, bold forms and purposeful uses of colour were in abundance.

Playful yet chic pieces by Enny straddled the label’s two main cultural influences; Italian history met London city life in colourful looks conceived of to highlight both the beauty and craft behind exquisite pieces of clothing. 

New-York based designer Jinseo Park’s JINSEO presentation spotlighted the body’s relationship to emotion via materials and silhouettes inspired by her Korean heritage. Voluminous, sculptural shapes met soft, cream-coloured materials in dream-like yet dramatic gowns. 

With sustainability and West-African heritage at their core, Leila Daniele’s chic looks featured a variety of neutral yet eye-catching textiles and shapes. Classic strapless and cowl-neck silhouettes met textured materials, capturing the label’s focus on femininity and cultural identity.

With the aim of merging fashion and art together in the everyday, MAD DAISY’s founder Dr. Margarita Fedoseev brought an intriguing creative flair to the runway. Pairing sculptural tailoring with a striking monotone palette, the label’s foundations in the art world were on full display. 

With two decades of talent scouting under their belt, Fashion Scout’s first Ones To Watch presentation expertly continued the programme’s innovative legacy.

Images: Yuri Weaver and Chris Yates