For AW26, Poet-Lab presented Inside the Lab, a collection defined by quiet authority and deliberate restraint. Staged at Spitalfields E1, the show examined the moment a woman steps away from adaptation and into authorship of her own narrative. Rather than leaning on overt rebellion, the collection explored clarity, control, and self-definition as forms of power.

The setting reinforced the concept. Industrial and understated, the space mirrored the collection’s interrogation of refinement as a system often imposed on women. Poet-Lab reframed femininity as something consciously shaped, rather than passively inherited. The result felt introspective, composed, and assured.

Silhouettes were precise and intentional. Exposure appeared measured, never ornamental. Sensuality existed without spectacle. Drawing from the restraint of 90s minimalism and pared-back 70s forms, the collection introduced a language of power rooted in alignment rather than approval. Column dresses, slips, and tailored minimal silhouettes defined the lineup, with elongated lines, bare shoulders, asymmetry, open backs, and restrained draping. Subtle hardware replaced embellishment, placing emphasis on purpose over decoration.

The spirit of Diana, Princess of Wales hovered throughout the collection, particularly her refusal to conform and her instinctive approach to self-expression. That influence culminated in the closing look worn by Tayce, a reimagining of Princess Diana’s wedding dress that transformed a symbol of tradition into one of autonomy.

Casting played a central role in articulating the show’s message. The runway featured Elton Ilirjani, Elliott with 2 T’s, and Tayce, each bringing a distinct presence to the narrative of femininity as something claimed and resilient. Genevieve Chenneour, known for her role in Bridgerton and her background as an elite athlete, added another dimension shaped by discipline and physical mastery.

Inside the Lab positioned clothing as a tool of self-definition. These were garments for women who operate from inner alignment, who no longer negotiate their presence, and who understand femininity as something constructed on their own terms. In its restraint, Poet-Lab delivered one of the season’s most quietly assured statements.